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India’s beautiful border ritual
My palms began to sweat as our taxi approached the border; my nerves were clearly getting the best of me. My husband and I had promised our families we wouldn’t do anything risky on our month-long...
India’s alternative Golden Triangle
Ever-increasing numbers of travellers come to India to experience the unique blend of headiness that the subcontinent so effortlessly brews, and the “Golden Triangle” route between Delhi, Agra...
Ten sites of religious pilgrimage
Lumbini, the birthplace of the Lord Buddha and a place of pilgrimage for Buddhists worldwide, is under threat of development. This winter, Buddhist monks began peacefully organizing in Nepal to...
Into the ruins of Vijayanagara
Once the hippie paradise of the sixties, Goa’s beautiful beaches are now overrun with endless hawkers and techno music. Last year, the Indian state broke its own tourism record. But just beyond the...