Martyrs' Hill and Velania
For good views of Prishtina, make your way up the hill towards Velania (if you're staying at the guesthouse, take the road by the Casino up hill and instead of turning off, keep going...). At the top of the hill is a park, with a strange half-derelict monument to something or other offering great views over the city below.
You'll notice two or three rows of graves just before the monument...this is where fighters of the UCK (KLA, Kosovo Liberation Army) are buried, headstones with pictures of the soldiers covered with red flowers, wreaths and Albanian flags. The practice of attaching photos of the dead to the headstone is something we don't do in Britain, and I can't decide if i like it or not...on one hand it makes the grave more personal, but on the other it seems quite eerie and macabre.
Behind the monument is another grave, this one protected by KFOR troops. This is the burial site of the former leader Ibrahim Rugova who died in January 2006. You can visit if you've got your passport with you.
On your way down the hill, you could walk through City Park, which seems a pleasant place to sit and write postcards among all the elderly men adn women gossipping in the sunshine, although I did attract a bit of unwanted attention in there...let's just say that the undergrowth in some parts of the park is fairly busy. The owner of the guesthouse warned us not to go near the place after dark, although he didn't say why...still, probably wise to heed that advice.