Papua New Guinea: an essential guide

Papua New Guinea offers virgin rainforest, unexplored mountain terrain, a fascinating history and world-class diving, says Regis St. Louis.

Why go?

A land of thriving tribal cultures, smouldering volcanoes and vast swathes of pristine mountainous rainforest, Papua New Guinea (PNG) is one of the world’s last great frontiers and remains largely untouched by mass tourism. Jagged peaks run down the length of the country, and its lush landscape is dotted with meandering rivers, sparkling lakes and thundering waterfalls tucked deep inside primary rainforests. Hundreds of islands lie north and east of the mainland, with sparkling white-sand beaches, coral reefs and verdant jungles teeming with wildlife. The magnificent plumage and outrageous courtship displays of the islands’ birds of paradise - two-thirds of PNG’s flora and fauna species are endemic - along with numerous species of tree kangaroo, spine-covered echidnas and huge flightless birds such as the cassowary, will delight birdwatchers and nature-lovers alike.

Travelling through this rugged country also offers countless opportunities to interact with Papuans, from staying in rainforest villages to witnessing a “sing-sing” (a traditional folklore festival), colourful displays in which tribal groups don elaborate headdresses and chant to the rhythmic pounding of drums.

Despite being some 9,000 miles from England, Papua New Guinea was part of the British Empire in the late 19th century and subsequently administered by Australia (from 1906-75). Vestiges of its colonial past can still be seen in some of the buildings in Port Moresby and on Samarai Island, in Milne Bay.

Papua New Guinea is also home to a number of Second World War sites, and visitors can follow in the footsteps of Australian “diggers” (who heroically held off a Japanese ground invasion) on the challenging Kokoda Track, or visit a former Japanese submarine base near Rabaul, where the shells of fighter aircraft still lay half-buried in the jungle. Offshore, divers can explore the biologically rich reefs and countless Second World War wrecks, including fighter planes and merchant ships, particularly near Rabaul, Kavieng, Milne Bay and Madang.

Visitors should note that travelling in PNG is challenging: paved roads are few, infrastructure is extremely limited (the capital, Port Moresby, which has an unsavoury reputation, has no roads connecting it to any other towns on the mainland) and getting around generally means flying - usually in small planes over high mountain peaks. However, those who crave the adventure of truly intrepid travel will be rewarded with the opportunity to scale 4,000-metre summits, surf big waves off largely empty beaches, or explore little-known dive sites. Diverse, colourful and extreme, this is an island nation like no other. Visiting Papua New Guinea isn’t just memorable; it really is the trip of a lifetime.

When to go

The weather in PNG can be unpredictable. The wet season runs from December to March, which is obviously not the best time for hiking and wildlife watching. However, if you're coming for surfing, this is when you'll find the best waves off the north coast and the islands. The drier months of May through to October is generally the most pleasant time to visit. It's also when many of the festivals are held. In most parts of PNG, diving is good year-round; Milne Bay however, has the best visibility from September to January and from April to June.